Engineered flooring is a system that allows for multiple installation methods. In this guide, discover all the techniques for installing engineered flooring for a long-lasting result.
Essential Steps Before Installing Engineered Flooring
First and foremost, let’s focus on the best practices to adopt before installing engineered flooring in your home. In new construction, engineered flooring is one of the elements that should be installed last. All work involving water and moisture must indeed be completed before proceeding with the installation of this type of flooring. The same applies to concrete and plaster, which must have hardened and aged for a period of at least 60 to 90 days.
It is also imperative that the materials are perfectly dry. Heating and ventilation systems must also be fully functional. As a guideline, a constant temperature of 19-24°C should be maintained in the room, in addition to a constant relative humidity between 37% and 55%.
For the installation of engineered wood flooring, it is also necessary to plan for an additional 5% of the surface area to be covered. This is to compensate for the loss due to cutting. Before installing this type of flooring, the installer must ensure that the work environment, condition, and type of subfloor comply with all requirements stated in the installation instructions. Particularly to the standards of the NWFA and NOFWA associations.
Rules for Approved Subfloor Types
Engineered flooring can be installed in all rooms of the house. Depending on the type of your space, you need to know the types of subfloors that allow for the installation of this kind of flooring. For a general idea, note that plywood panels with a minimum thickness of 15.5 mm or 5/8 inch, as well as OSB panels with a minimum thickness of 18.5 mm and compliant with NWFA standards, are eligible for engineered flooring installation. Also note that this type of subfloor is not highly recommended for a basement.
Concrete subfloors are also practical for installing engineered wood flooring. To do this, ensure that the concrete pour is 60 to 90 days old for optimal results. The surface must also be level, with a maximum deviation of 3.17 mm over 1.8 m being acceptable. The moisture content according to the device called a concrete moisture meter should also not exceed 12% or 4% if the hygrometer measures water volume.
A wooden subfloor is also allowed for installing engineered flooring. However, it is important to ensure that its moisture content is compliant using a wood moisture tester. For this, it must not exceed 12% and not differ by more than 4% from that of the flooring to be installed. Thus, if the moisture content is too high, you need to find the source and correct it.
In the case of installation on a radiant heating system floor, it is essential to consider some conditions. Namely, using the floating method or the glued method for installing engineered flooring. Acclimating your flooring in the room for 48 to 72 hours with the radiant heating system operational at a temperature between 18 and 24°C is also recommended. Not to mention the fact that the subfloor temperature should not go beyond 28°C.
Generally, to successfully install engineered flooring, the subfloor must be clean. It must also be structurally sound, firmly screwed to the joists to prevent creaking, and its surface must be flat. As for the moisture content of the flooring, it should not exceed 12% under any circumstances.
Single Glue-Down Installation
For this type of installation, you need to have adhesive. This will act as a vapor barrier for the proper execution of the installation. You will also need a miter saw, jigsaw, square, measuring tape, chalk line, hammer, rubber mallet, level, wood chisel, vacuum cleaner, and damp rags. Not to mention glue buckets, notched trowel, and some touch-up stain pencils.
Before installing the glued engineered flooring, ensure that the subfloor meets the necessary construction standards. Start by leaving a gap between the boards and the wall of ¼ inch at the end of the boards and ½ inch along the length of the boards. Then, draw a starting line to ensure the first row is straight. Continue by applying the adhesive using a 3/16 inch V-notch trowel held at a 45° angle, evenly across the surface.
Once this is done, lay each floorboard, taking care to press it sufficiently into the adhesive on the floor. You can use a rubber mallet or walk on the floor in both directions to achieve this. Also, always use a damp cloth to quickly wipe away any adhesive residue. For a good mix of color, length, and appearance, you can also use strips from different boxes.
For a standard installation, it’s also important to stagger the ends of the strips by at least 15 cm from the end of adjacent boards. This avoids the risk of end joints overlapping. Once the installation is complete, remember to roll the engineered flooring with a solid device in both directions. Finally, allow it to dry for 24 hours before walking on it or moving furniture.
Double glue installation
As with the previous installation method, it is imperative that the subfloor meets all the conditions already mentioned. For this type of installation, you will also need various tools in addition to an acoustic membrane of your choice. Once the subfloor condition has been checked, start by cutting the membrane using a retractable blade knife or regular scissors. The aluminized side of the membrane in question should be installed facing up to reflect the room temperature towards the floor.
Next, cover the entire surface with the membrane, bringing it up vertically 5 cm on walls and obstacles. Remember that no space should remain uncovered and the membrane strips should touch without overlapping. To do this, start along the wall by folding the strip onto itself lengthwise to uncover the edge of the wall. Then, spread the adhesive on the exposed part of the subfloor and cover the glued part with the membrane. Repeat this action until the room is complete.
Then ensure that the joints are touching and well glued to the subfloor. They don’t need to be sealed with adhesive tape. Pass a heavy roller of 35 to 45 kg over the membrane to ensure adhesive transfer. Then finish by installing the engineered flooring. Remember that for an effective installation, it is important that the boards are straight and square. From left to right, place each board by pressing firmly to optimize the floor’s entry into the adhesive.
Nailed installation
Here, you will need a miter saw, jigsaw, square, measuring tape, chalk line, hammer, rubber mallet, level, and nails according to the thickness of the product. You will also need a nail gun, vapor barrier, wood chisel, vacuum cleaner, and safety glasses. Before proceeding, always make sure that the subfloor meets the construction standards governed by the installation of a nailed type floor.
It is advisable to install a vapor barrier over the entire surface. For a stunning visual result, it is also recommended to lay the floorboards parallel to the longest wall in the room. Then draw a starting line to ensure the first row is straight and square. Next, leave a gap between the boards and the wall of ¼ inch at the end of the boards and ½ inch along the length of the boards. Stagger the ends of the strips by at least 15 cm from the end of adjacent boards to prevent end joints from overlapping.
Depending on the thickness of the engineered wood, nails should be chosen carefully. For installation, always lay your planks from left to right and nail at all four corners. Note that for 3 ¼ inch and 5 inch planks, you should nail every 6 to 8 inches. However, for 7 inch planks and larger, you need to nail every 4 to 6 inches. Also, always maintain a minimum distance of 2 inches from the end of the planks before starting to nail.
Floating installation
For this approach, you’ll need glue, a vapor barrier membrane, a polyethylene foam membrane in addition to the tools already listed. After checking all conditions related to the state of the subfloor, start by laying a vapor barrier over the entire surface. Then unroll the polyethylene foam sheets in the same direction as the planks will be laid, avoiding overlapping joints. For installation, it’s crucial to leave a space between the planks and the wall of ¼ inch at the end of the planks and ½ inch along the length of the planks.
Once this is done, draw a starting line to ensure the first row of flooring is straight and square. Then, connect the panels of the first row on the narrow side along the entire room. Next, apply a thin bead of tube glue on top of the male parts of the plank and glue it to the subfloor, always staggering the ends of the strips to avoid overlaps.
It’s also important to connect the long sides and then slide the strip as close as possible to the short side of the previous one. Finish by gently tapping on the side until the 2 planks are even. Don’t forget to always use a damp cloth to quickly wipe away any glue residue. To perfect everything, it’s ideal to wait 24 hours before walking or placing heavy objects on the newly installed engineered floor.
